discussion the omnivore s dilemma 1 84

Pollan imagines a naturalist viewing the supermarket:

If you do manage to regard the supermarket through the eyes of a naturalist, your first impression is apt to be of its astounding biodiversity. Look how many different plants and animals (and fungi) are represented on this single acre of land! What forest or prairie could hope to match it? (16)

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Why is this impression deceptive? How does Pollan ask us to look at the supermarket in a different way?